DTF Printing Guides

What direct-to-film actually is, how the process works step by step, what it prints well on, and what it costs in Canada.

Exact temperatures, times and pressures by fabric, why the second press is not optional, and the four mistakes behind most failed prints.

Why PNG is the safe default, when a PDF is genuinely better, and the reason a JPG prints a white box on a black shirt.

Resolution, transparency, edges, colour mode and sizing, with the pixel maths and a pre-flight checklist you can run in a minute.

305–315°F on cotton, 270–285°F on synthetics — and why your press dial is probably lying to you by 15 to 20 degrees.

10–15 seconds on cotton, 8–10 on synthetics, plus the pre-press and the second press. Why longer is not better.

40–60 psi, how to check it without a gauge, and why under-pressure is the number one cause of edges lifting in the wash.

Ours is cold peel — wait 20–30 seconds until the film is cool. Here is what happens if you do not, and how to tell the two apart.

Silicone sheet, parchment or Teflon for the second press — what each does to the finish, and the four things never to use.

Drop to 270–285°F for 8–10 seconds, and what to do about dye migration on light prints over dark performance fabric.

Wait 24 hours, wash inside out on cold, tumble low, never iron the print. Plus a care card you can copy into your packaging.

Longer than most people expect and shorter than most suppliers claim. What actually determines the lifespan of a print.

Edges lifting, ink pulling away with the film, cloudy patches, scorch marks and dye migration — the cause and the fix for each.

An honest comparison including where screen printing genuinely wins, and the order size where the crossover happens.

Fabric compatibility is the decisive difference. Plus colour on darks, cost per unit, hand feel and which suits small runs.