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Guide · Getting started

Your First DTF Order, Step by Step

Ordering transfers for the first time is mostly a question of not knowing what you do not know. Here is the whole sequence, what we do at each stage, and the three decisions that are worth thinking about for thirty seconds before you order.
The sequence

What happens after you hit order.

Seven steps. You are involved in two of them, and one of those is pressing the shirt.

DTF orders ship in 24–48 hours (UV DTF in 1–3 business days). Order before 11 AM ET on a business day and that day counts as day one; after the cut-off, day one is the next business day. The exact ship-by date is on screen before you pay. The step people do not expect is the third one — a human looking at the artwork before anything is committed to film. What the file check catches →

Worth a moment

Three decisions that matter first time.

1. The size, in inches

Price is area, and a design that looks right on screen is often bigger than it needs to be on a shirt. A 10 × 12 inch full front and a 4 × 4 inch left chest cover most work. Standard placements →

2. Whether you want cutting

Cut transfers arrive trimmed and ready. Uncut means you trim them yourself, which is fine for a handful and tedious past twenty. What cutting saves →

3. The garment you will press on

Cotton and blends press hot; polyester and performance fabric need a lower temperature. Deciding this now means your test press is a real test. Temperatures by fabric →

And order small

One or two pieces, pressed and washed, before a hundred. With no minimum there is no reason to prove a supplier with a large order.

What arrives

Opening the parcel.

What a first DTF order looks like when it arrives
What you will seeWhy
Transfers on clear film, printed side upThat is the finished product — nothing to weed or assemble.
A slightly matte, powdery feel on the inkThat is the cured adhesive. It is meant to feel like that before pressing.
Cut edges, if you ordered cuttingTrimmed close to the artwork so there is no clear border on the shirt.
A packing slip with your order numberQuote it if you message us — it is how we find the job.
No instructions printed on the filmPressing settings depend on your garment, so they are on the site rather than guessed in a box.
Transfers laid flat, not rolledStore them the same way, out of sunlight and away from heat.

They keep. That matters more than it sounds

Transfers stored flat and away from heat last indefinitely. That is what lets you order ahead of a deadline, press to demand instead of guessing sizes, and treat a reorder as stock rather than a scramble.

Pressing the first one

The four steps, and the one everyone skips.

Pre-press the garment for a few seconds to drive out moisture and flatten seams. Press the transfer at the temperature for your fabric. Wait until the film is cool and peel it. Then press again for ten to fifteen seconds under a silicone sheet.

The second press and the first wash are where first attempts are won or lost. Both are free and both get skipped.

The second press is the step everyone skips, and it is the one that decides whether the print survives washing. It melts the ink into the fibres and drops the surface sheen to a soft matte. Ten seconds, once, per shirt. Full pressing sequence →

Judging the result

How to tell whether it worked.

Not by looking at it. A bad press and a good press look almost identical on day one — the difference appears at the edges after a few washes. Press one, wash it five or ten times the way the garment will actually be washed, and then judge.

If the edges lift, it is almost always one of three things: not enough pressure, no second press, or the film peeled while it was still warm. All three are fixable, and re-pressing the affected area at full settings usually recovers it. Troubleshooting guide →

FAQ

Frequently asked questions

Do I need an account to order?
No. Upload a file, set the size and quantity, and check out as a guest. An account is worth having if you expect to reorder, because your designs stay saved and a repeat run becomes a couple of clicks instead of a re-upload.
What file should I send?
A PNG with a transparent background, at 300 DPI at the size you want it printed. PDF is better for vector logos and type. JPG only if the design is meant to be a solid rectangle, because JPG cannot hold transparency.
Will you tell me if something is wrong with my file?
Yes — a person opens every file before it goes on the printer. If the resolution is too low, an edge has a halo from a rough cut-out, or the design is sized oddly for the garment, we message you and wait rather than printing it and hoping.
What actually arrives in the box?
Printed transfers on clear film, cut if you asked for cutting, with the printed side up. They are ready to press — there is nothing to trim, weed or assemble.
What do I need to press them?
A heat press, a silicone sheet or parchment paper for the second press, and ideally a laser thermometer. A household iron does not hold even pressure or a stable temperature, and it is the most common reason a first attempt fails.
How much should a first order be?
Small. One or two transfers on the garment you actually intend to use, pressed and then washed several times, tells you more than a hundred-piece order does. There is no minimum, so a test is a couple of dollars — a 10 × 12 inch print is $2.99.

Start with one transfer.

No minimum means the cheapest way to learn this is to order the smallest thing we sell, press it, and wash it ten times.

No minimums · No setup fees · A person checks every file