What to Put On Top of a DTF Transfer When Pressing
First press versus second press.
On the first press, the transfer still has its carrier film on top. That film is the barrier between the ink and the platen, so nothing else is needed. Adding a cover sheet at this stage is harmless but pointless.
On the second press — after you have peeled the film cold — the ink is exposed. Pressing a hot platen directly onto exposed DTF ink will damage it: at best you get an unwanted gloss, at worst the ink sticks to the platen and comes away with it. This is where the cover sheet is not optional.
Three things that work.
- Softest, most even matte finish.
- Reusable more or less indefinitely.
- No fibres, no residue, no sticking.
- Costs more up front and pays for itself quickly.
- Works genuinely well and costs almost nothing.
- Available in any grocery store.
- Reusable a few times — replace when glossy patches appear.
- The right answer if you press occasionally.
- Durable and reusable for a long time.
- Leaves a slightly glossier finish than silicone.
- Perfectly acceptable — just a different look.
- Use it if you already own one.
Four things that will ruin the print.
| Do not use | What happens |
|---|---|
| Plain copy paper | Sticks to the warm ink and leaves paper fibres embedded in the surface. Peeling it off takes some of the print with it. |
| A towel or cloth | Embosses its weave permanently into the softened ink. The texture is not removable. |
| Wax paper | The wax coating melts into the print and leaves a cloudy, greasy-looking finish. |
| The release film you just peeled | It is designed to adhere to ink under heat. Pressing it back down re-bonds it, and pulling it off again lifts the print. |
The copy paper one is worth emphasising because it is the most tempting — it is on every desk and it looks inert. It is not; it will bond to the print and leave a fuzzy surface you cannot fix.
What the second press actually does to the look.
A freshly peeled DTF print is glossy. On a garment that is often the tell that gives away a transfer — it reads as a sticker rather than as printed fabric.
The second press changes that. Pressing under a silicone sheet or parchment for 10–15 seconds at the same temperature knocks the sheen back to a soft matte, and it flattens the slight raised edge of the print into the fabric. Side by side with an unpressed one, the difference is obvious immediately — and the second one looks considerably more like a screen print.
Want to keep some gloss?
Use a Teflon sheet instead of silicone. It retains more shine, which suits some designs — particularly bold graphic work on dark garments where the gloss reads as deliberate rather than accidental.
Why the second press is not optional.
Finish is the visible benefit. The invisible one matters more: the second press drives the ink further into the fabric structure rather than leaving it sitting on the surface, and that is the single biggest factor in how many wash cycles a print survives.
Almost every “the print started lifting” message we receive traces back to one of two things — insufficient pressure or a skipped second press. Fifteen seconds and a sheet of parchment is a very cheap way to avoid both conversations. How long transfers actually last →
Frequently asked questions
- What do you put on top of a DTF transfer when pressing?
- Nothing on the first press — the carrier film is already covering the design. On the second press, after the film has been peeled, cover the design with a silicone finishing sheet or a piece of parchment paper.
- Do I need a cover sheet for the first press?
- No. The transfer arrives with its carrier film on top, and that film is what sits against the platen. Adding a cover sheet on the first press does no harm but it does nothing useful either.
- Silicone sheet or parchment paper — which is better?
- A silicone finishing sheet gives the best surface and is reusable indefinitely, so it wins if you press regularly. Parchment paper is cheap, easy to find and works genuinely well. Both are correct answers; the silicone sheet is just nicer.
- Can I use a Teflon sheet?
- Yes, and it works fine. It tends to leave a slightly glossier finish than silicone or parchment, which some people prefer and some do not. If you already own one, use it.
- Can I reuse parchment paper?
- A few times, yes. Replace it once it develops shiny patches — those are areas where the coating has transferred away, and they will start sticking to your print.
- What should I never use?
- Plain copy paper (it sticks and leaves fibres), a towel or cloth (it embosses its texture into the print), wax paper (the wax melts into the design) and the release film you just peeled off (it will re-adhere).
Related guides
What direct-to-film actually is, how the process works step by step, what it prints well on, and what it costs in Canada.
How to Press DTF Transfers (Settings That Actually Work)Exact temperatures, times and pressures by fabric, why the second press is not optional, and the four mistakes behind most failed prints.
Best File Format for DTF Printing: PNG, PDF or JPGWhy PNG is the safe default, when a PDF is genuinely better, and the reason a JPG prints a white box on a black shirt.
DTF Artwork Requirements — The Complete ChecklistResolution, transparency, edges, colour mode and sizing, with the pixel maths and a pre-flight checklist you can run in a minute.
Ready to press?
Cold-peel transfers, printed in Ontario, with no minimum order. Bring your own silicone sheet.
No minimums · No setup fees · Printed in Ontario